Samoa
The scenic 31km (19 mile) drive from Faleolo Airport into the historic capital of Apia provides a fitting introduction to Samoa. Here in this cultural storehouse, which was once known as Western Samoa, the Polynesian lifestyle known as fa'a Samoa -- The Samoan Way -- remains alive and well. On one side of the road lies an aquamarine lagoon; on the other, coconut plantations climb gentle slopes to the volcanic ridge along the middle of Upolu, the main island.
Along the shore sit hundreds of Samoan fales (houses), their big turtle-shaped roofs resting on poles, their sides open to the breeze and to passersby. Their grass trimmed and their borders marked with boulders painted white, expansive lawns make the route seem like an unending park. Samoans wrapped in lava-lavas shower under outdoor faucets and sit together in their fales. Only the dim glow of television screens coming from beneath tin roofs rather than thatch remind us that a century has passed since Robert Louis Stevenson lived, wrote, and died here in Samoa.
Even the town of Apia harkens back to those bygone South Seas days. Although landfills have extended the shoreline, government high-rises now stand on the waterfront, and traffic lights blink at several corners, many old white clapboard buildings still sleep along Beach Road, just as they did when Stevenson stepped ashore here in 1889. Compared with the hustle and bustle of Papeete in French Polynesia, or with the congestion and tuna canneries of Pago Pago in nearby American Samoa, life in Apia is slow and easy.
If you go with an eye to exploring the culture as well as visiting some of the South Pacific's most beautiful and undeveloped beaches, Samoa will enchant you just as it did Stevenson, Maugham, and Margaret Mead, all of whom found plenty to write home about.
When to Go
The Samoas enjoy a humid tropical climate, with lots of intense sunshine, even during the wet season (Dec-May). Average daily high temperatures range from 83°F (28°C) in the drier and somewhat cooler months of June through September to 86°F (30°C) from December to April, when midday can be hot and sticky. Evenings are usually in the comfortable 70s (21°C-26°C) all year-round.
Events -- Duffers from around the South Pacific descend on Apia in early January for the Head of State's Birthday celebrations, which include a golf tournament. Easter Week sees various religious observances, including hymn singing and dramas. Independence Day in early June features dances, outrigger-canoe races, marching competitions, and horse racing. The country's biggest event is the Teuila Festival during the first week of September (www.teuilafestival.ws). It features a variety of entertainment, including canoe races, dance competitions, traditional games, a floral parade, handicraft demonstrations, and the Miss Samoa beauty pageant. The second Sunday in October is observed as White Sunday, during which children go to church dressed in white, lead the services, and are honored at family feasts. Christmas week is celebrated with great gusto.
The Samoa Tourism Authority posts the precise dates and the schedules for these events on its website, www.visitsamoa.ws.
Holidays -- Offices and schools are closed January 1 and January 2 for New Year's; Good Friday and Easter Monday; April 25 as Anzac Day, to remember those who died in the two World Wars; the Monday after the second Sunday in May as Mothers' Day of Samoa; June 1 through June 3, for the annual Independence Celebrations; the first Monday in August as Labour Day; the Monday after the second Sunday in October, in honor of the preceding White Sunday; Christmas Day; and December 26 as Boxing Day.
A Week in the Samoas
By being both Christian and conservative, Samoa and nearby American Samoa have maintained their traditional Polynesian cultures to a remarkable degree. I like this trip because it lets me examine the old way of life while still enjoying great beaches, reefs, and tropical scenery.
Day 1: Arrival & Recovery on Upolu -- Whether you stay in town or at a beachside resort, devote your first day to seeing Apia, the picturesque waterfront capital of independent Samoa. Stroll the promenade along the harbor and visit the nearby Robert Louis Stevenson Museum & Grave, where the great writer is buried on Mount Vaea overlooking Apia. Don't miss a fiafia feast and show, especially at one of Aggie Grey's resorts.
Day 2: An Excursion to Lalomanu Beach -- Few South Pacific beaches combine great sand, a colorful lagoon, and a dramatic backdrop as does the one at Lalomanu village, on the eastern end of Upolu, Samoa's main island. The drive there takes 2 hours, so leave early to enjoy a full day at the beach. You can also overnight beside the lagoon in a beach fale.
Day 3: Return to Paradise Beach -- In case you didn't get an eyeful at Lalomanu Beach, spend this day between the black rocks protruding at Return to Paradise Beach, on Upolu's southwestern coast, where Gary Cooper starred in the 1950s movie Return to Paradise.
Days 4-5: Savai'i -- Spend 1 of your 2 days on Samoa's undeveloped and fascinating "Big Island" exploring the Virgin's Grave and other sites on the Savai'i lava fields with Warren Jopling of Safua Tours. Plan to stay in or near the north shore village of Manase, perhaps in an open-air beach fale beside Manase's magnificent white sands.
Days 6-7: A Slice of America in Pago Pago -- Three good hotels now make this beautiful if somewhat commercialized American outpost worth a visit. Spend 1 day touring Tutuila's south shore, especially from the fabled harbor at Pago Pago to the island's eastern end. The winding road passes one gorgeous bay after another. If you're into hiking in this humid tropical climate, devote your second day to the National Park of American Samoa.
