Fiji

 

The best thing about Fiji isn't its palm-draped beaches, blue lagoons, or rugged mountains. I think it's the enormous friendliness of the Fijian people.

 

Picking the best of everything else in Fiji is no easy task, for this is a diverse tropical country with many choices.

 

Your choice of where you go and what you do will depend on why you are coming to Fiji, and how much money you have to spend while you're here. You can scuba dive to exhaustion over some of the world's most beautiful reefs or just laze on the beach with a trashy novel. You can share a 300-room hotel with package tourists, or get away from it all on a tiny islet. Even out there, you can be left alone with your lover or join your fellow guests at lively dinner parties. You can totally ignore the islanders around you or enrich your own life by learning about theirs. You can listen to the day's events on CNN International or get out and see what Fiji was like a century ago. Those decisions are all yours.

 

Regardless of where you stay and what you do, you are in for a memorable time. The friendly Fijians will see to that.

 

People often ask me where they should go and what they should do in Fiji. While I cannot plan their vacations for them, I can in this chapter give some recommendations to help you personalize your own visit to Fiji. The end result will depend on what you want to see and do, how much time you have, and how much money you want to spend.

 

For a majority of its visitors, especially those from nearby Australia and New Zealand, Fiji is one of those "3-S" tropical destinations -- as in, sun, sea, and sand. For those relaxing diversions, I think you should choose one resort in your price range and stay there for the better part of your vacation.

 

You could spend your entire vacation in Nadi or one of the nearby islands, but you will miss what I consider to be the best parts of Fiji. This is a country of more than 300 gorgeous islands, and -- in order to get a sense of this diversity -- I would try to experience more than one.

 

By that I do not mean island hopping in the Mamanuca or Yasawa islands off Nadi. Those islands and their resorts are variations on the same theme, and you would waste valuable time jumping from one similar environment to another.

 

While Aussies and Kiwis can fly up here for a weekend, the long flights coming and going mean the North Americans burn a whole day getting to Fiji and another day returning home. Consequently,  Northern Hemisphere folk should certainly spend at least 1 week here, or more if they can.

 

When planning your trip, first find out both the international and domestic airlines' schedules, and try to book all domestic inter-island flights at the same time as your international flights. Do not wait until you arrive in Fiji to take care of this important chore.

 

And remember the travel agent's classic advice: Never stay at the most luxurious property first. Anything after that will seem inferior, and you will likely come home disappointed.

 

Highlights of Fiji in Two Weeks

 

This whirlwind trip whisks you through the highlights of Fiji. The Queen's Road, a two-lane highway, links Nadi, the Coral Coast, and Suva, so you'll make this part of the trip overland. Bus connections are available, but we recommend renting a car in order to have maximum flexibility. Ferries run from Suva to Taveuni and Savusavu, but flying is your best bet.

 

Days 1-2: Relaxing in Nadi

Take the first day to recover from your international flight by lounging around the pool, shopping in Nadi Town, or light sightseeing. Spend Day 2 on land-based excursions, such as to the late Raymond Burr's Garden of the Sleeping Giant; Lautoka, Fiji's second-largest city; and Viseisei Village, the country's oldest native Fijian village. Finish off with some more shopping and dinner in Nadi.

 

Days 3-4: Exploring the Coral Coast

Get up early and drive south to the Coral Coast, on the southern coast of Viti Levu, Fiji's "mainland." On the way stop at the Momi Guns for a look at the World War II battery and a gorgeous view across Nadi Bay; the Kalevu South Pacific Cultural Centre for a glimpse into Fijian culture; and at Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park for an example of its more interesting geology. The next day, visit Kula Eco Park to meet Fiji's interesting wildlife, and hike to a waterfall with Adventures in Paradise Fiji. Catch an evening show featuring the "fire walkers" from Beqa Island.

 

Day 5: Rafting on the Navua River

One of our favorite Fiji excursions is on the Navua River, which carves a dramatic gorge through Viti Levu's mountainous interior before spilling into a flood plain west of Suva. The usual trip takes you upriver on a fast speedboat but brings you back on a bilibili (bamboo raft). Alternately, you can ride an inflatable boat over white waters with the excellent Rivers Fiji.

 

Day 6: Suva

On the way to Suva, Fiji's humid capital city, stop in Pacific Harbour for a presentation of native arts, crafts, and traditions at the Arts Village, the country's best cultural center. Once in Suva, take a walking tour of downtown, ending at the Fiji Museum. Be sure to have a Fijian lunch at the Old Mill Cottage next to the U.S. Embassy.

 

Day 7: A Trip Back in Time to Levuka

A day trip from Suva to Levuka always highlights a visit to Fiji. The country's original capital, the old town has retained its 19th-century appearance, and the backdrop of sheer cliffs makes it one of the South Pacific's most beautiful towns. Get Ovalau Watersports to organize a morning walking tour and an afternoon excursion to Ovalau. Either catch the late afternoon flight back to Suva or plan an overnight at the charming Levuka Homestay.

 

Days 8-9: Exploring Taveuni

If you slept on Ovalau, take the early morning Air Fiji flight back to Nausori Airport near Suva. You can connect from there to Taveuni, Fiji's third-largest island. Famous for world-class diving on the nearby Great White Wall and its Rainbow Reef, Taveuni also is a hiker's paradise. Stay near the airport, from where it's an easy trip to the waterfalls in Bouma National Heritage Park and the scenic Lavena Coastal Walk. The next day hike to the mountaintop Lake Tagimaucia, where you might see the rare flower of the same name.

 

Days 10-11: Savusavu: "Little America"

A morning flight will land you at Savusavu, on Fiji's second-largest island, Vanua Levu. Although it is rapidly developing, the town still recalls its days as a 19th-century copra port. Stroll along the harbor, have lunch at the Bula-Re Cafe, and visit the famous Savusavu Hot Springs, where Fijians still cook their evening meals. Stop by Rock 'n Downunder Divers to rent a kayak or arrange an excursion to a Fijian village. If you're traveling with children, stay at Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort, one of the South Pacific's top family resorts.

 

Days 12-13: An Island Retreat

Spending at least 1 night on a small island in the Mamanucas or Yasawas is almost an essential ingredient of any trip to Fiji, whether it's in one of Fiji's first overwater bungalows at Likuliku Lagoon Resort, at the raucous Beachcomber Island Resort, the family-oriented Plantation Island Resort, a quiet couples-only hideaway like Matamanoa Island Resort, the charming Navutu Stars Resort in the Yasawas, or one of the dormitories dotting the islands. They all have much better beaches than you'll find on Viti Levu, and the stopover will give you a chance to rest up for your trip home.

 

Day 14: Last-Minute Shopping in Nadi

Spend your last day catching up on shopping or any excursions you might have missed in and around Nadi.